The SWAN Wave Model is Simulating WAves Nearshore; a third-generation wave model developed at Delft University of Technology that computes random, short-crested wind-generated waves in coastal regions and inland waters. SWAN accounts for the following physics:

• Wave propagation in time and space, shoaling, refraction due to current and depth, frequency shifting due to currents and non-stationary depth.
• Wave generation by wind.
• Three- and four-wave interactions.
• Whitecapping, bottom friction and depth-induced breaking.
• Dissipation due to aquatic vegetation, turbulent flow and viscous fluid mud.
• Wave-induced set-up.
• Propagation from laboratory up to global scales.
• Transmission through and reflection (specular and diffuse) against obstacles.
• Diffraction.

Warning - Forecasting wave heights within 1.5 foot (0.45 m) of the actual wave height, as recorded by a wave buoy, is typically excellent to very good out to 3 days, fair to middling from 3 - 7 days, poor from 7 - 10 days, and statistical noise for forecasts longer than 10 days. This holds for any and all wave models you may be looking at, no matter how fancy the presentation. We provide long-range forecasts with this in mind, Caveat Emptor. To confirm this, a comparison of GFS and WAM wave forecasts compared to NDBC wave buoy data can be reviewed at Wave Model Validation